Ryan Robinson, Director of Education, Brescome Barton and Worldwide Wines.

By Ryan Robinson, Advanced Sommelier-CMS, WSET Diploma and WSET Educator

New, used, American or French? Almost daily, I am quizzed about a wine’s incorporation of oak use. From hosting wine classes to listening to wine suppliers tout the merits of why their brand is superior over the closest competitor, it’s become such a common question for wine buyers and aficionados alike. Have you contemplated if it is really that significant?

Oak was introduced to wine around the first century A.D., when the Romans replicated the wooden barrels built by the Gauls. Instead of using the traditional amphora to store and transport wine, the Romans repurposed the Gaul barrel and began using it as a storage and transport vessel for wine. Wine was a valuable commodity in Roman life that was not bound by social class. The valuable contents were made equally available to the wealthiest of citizens and the peasants and involuntary workers. At the height of Roman civilization, it was estimated that Romans consumed the equivalent of one bottle a day.

Not all oak is created equal. There are two main factors that influence what type of oak will be incorporated into the winemaking process: origin and variety. These factors impact the aromatic and flavor profile of a wine but also contribute to the wine’s structure that is observed through tactile sensation and has the potential to increase a wine’s ability to age.

The costliest and most sought-after source of oak is French in origin. While sourced from a single country, there is still great variability in French oak. The first choice in selection is type of oak. There are two species sourced: the more obscure Quercus sessiliflora and the more commonly used Quercus robur.

Additionally, there are five forests where most of the oak is harvested: Limousin, Nevers, Tronçais, Vosges and Allier. Each imparts a different nuance to the finished wine. This oak source generally has the most subtle impact on wine and can be recognized in the form of vanilla, clove and nutmeg while fostering a silky texture on the mouthfeel. French oak barrels can cost anywhere from $1,200 to $2,400.

Quite opposite from the nuanced impact of French oak is the use of American oak, Quercus alba. These trees are typically sourced from both the Appalachian and Midwest regions of the United States. Traditionally, American is more aggressive, as it imparts aromas and flavors of bold vanilla, dill and coconut. On the palate, the wine tends to have a creamy texture that adds a layer of richness to the finished wine. American oak is more affordable for wine producers, as an average barrel costs $600 to $1,200.

If French oak is very subtle and American oak is viewed as being more powerful, Eastern European oak finds itself nestled right in between the two styles. Traditionally sourced from the forests of Hungary and Slovenia, Eastern European oak—Quercus petraea and Quercus robur—finds balance between the previous two offerings. Wines from Eastern European oak display toasty flavors mingled with nuanced spice and contribute a moderate tannin influence. The cost for Eastern European oak varies based on where it was sourced, but, overall, it is a relative bargain when compared to French oak. However, over the last 10 years, there has been a significant decline in demand for barrels from these regions.

The use of oak in winemaking has a rich history that spans centuries, evolving from a practical storage solution to a sophisticated tool for flavor enhancement. The selection of oak type and origin coupled with the method of oak delivery play crucial roles in shaping the sensory profile of wine while contributing an additional layer of aromatic and flavor complexity. Understanding the specific contributions of different oak origins allows winemakers to sculpt wines with desired complexity, aroma and flavor.

Ryan Robinson is the Director of Education for Brescome Barton and Worldwide Wines in Connecticut. He is also the Wine Director for Cornerstone Restaurant Group in North America and South Korea, and an Adjunct Professor at the University of New Haven. He holds the credentials of Advanced Sommelier-CMS; WSET Diploma and WSET Educator in Wine, Sake and Beer; Rioja Wine Educator; Wine Scholar Guild Educator and Spanish Wine Specialist; and Certified Scotch Whisky Professional from the Council of Whiskey Masters.