Ryan Robinson, Director of Education, Brescome Barton and Worldwide Wines.

By Ryan Robinson, Advanced Sommelier-CMS, WSET Diploma and WSET Educator

The holidays have arrived and there is no easier way to find adventure in buying new wine than to purchase a bottle as a gift for friends or family. During the holidays, our staple gift wine is usually something big, full-bodied and powerful such as a Brunello di Montalcino or a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. On the other hand, you can opt for something celebratory with bubbles, such as Champagne. This is not to say these wines do not make great gifts, because they do, but there are other options that can leave a lasting memory without breaking the bank, all while introducing your friends and family to their new favorite wine.

This column is the second in a three-part series on the wines of Galicia, Spain. The headlining region of the area is without a doubt Rías Baixas, which was covered in the November issue of the Beverage Journal. As we inch closer to the end of 2024, I want to introduce you to two of the more obscure appellations in the area—Valdeorras and Monterrei—both of which are sparsely represented in New England states … for the moment.

Valdeorras, located in the easternmost sector of Galicia, was established as an appellation in 1945. The second appellation to gain status in Galicia, it is often misidentified as the “valley of gold,” a reference to the Roman occupation of the area where they were mining for gold. However, this oft-touted claim does not hold factual evidence. Instead, Valdeorras translates to “valley of Gigguri.”

The Gigguri were a local tribe that inhabited the area before the Roman invasion. Here, there are two main grape varieties with a long list of supportive grape varieties. The green grape Godello and red grape Mencía take center stage. This region has been relatively unknown until recently, when new winemakers began investing in the area. Multiple styles can be produced in the appellation, from still white and red wines to sparkling Godello and the sweet, yet hard to find, vino Tostado.

In 2004, Rafael “Rafa” Palacios of the famed Palacios winemaking family bought his first Valdeorras vineyard. Rafael is the brother of Álvaro Palacios, who minted his winemaking fame in Priorat, then eventually Rioja. Unlike Álvaro, Rafael found his fame in the Godello grape variety. As of today, he still is doubling down on Godello being the best representation of the area … so much so that he only produced four bottlings of Godello. These wines are fresh and vibrant with the ability to age well. Here, quality aged white wines, a rarity in Galicia, can be found.

A view of the Rafael Palacios vineyards. Photo by Ryan Robinson.

South of Valdeorras, near the Portugal border, is an equally small and relatively obscure appellation known as Monterrei. The region is a relative newcomer to the area, as it was established in 1996. This region is bisected by the Tâmega River, which eventually flows into the Douro (Duero in Portuguese). It represents significantly less production, with only 530 hectares under vine when compared to the 1,171 hectares of vines found in Valdeorras. Much like Valdeorras, Monterrei produces some excellent wines made from Godello and Mencía. Only still red and white wines can be produced in the appellation.

It stands to reason that Godello does so well in these appellations because the grape variety originated in Galicia. It’s ideal for the climate as it buds early and ripens early. Wine crafted from this variety is often compared to that of white Burgundy. They are round and ripe, showing an array of tree fruits, with zesty acidity and a mineral-laden backbone. Whereas Mencía, the main red grape of these two appellations, produces wines with finesse and elegance.

A stark contrast to the bold wines of Montalcino, Barolo or California, Mencía is native to Bierzo in the neighboring Castilla y León. The variety is also known as Jaen in Portugal. The wines produced from this grape are medium-bodied with friendly-going tannins and aromas of fresh red fruits and sweet herbs. With age, these wines can develop very intriguing tertiary notes of smoke reminiscent of Northern Rhône Syrah. They are intriguing and enticing and are rapidly becoming some of my favorites!

Both Godello and Mencía are great gift-giving wines, as they appeal to a wide array of wine drinkers. They have mass appeal and are easy to enjoy. With food, these two wines crest with potential, making them perfect accompaniments to any holiday feast. The selections might not run deep, but what you can find is steeped with quality and are waiting to be discovered.

Ryan Robinson is the Director of Education for Brescome Barton and Worldwide Wines in Connecticut. He is also the Wine Director for Cornerstone Restaurant Group in North America and South Korea, and an Adjunct Professor at the University of New Haven. He holds the credentials of Advanced Sommelier-CMS; WSET Diploma and WSET Educator in Wine, Sake and Beer; Rioja Wine Educator; Wine Scholar Guild Educator and Spanish Wine Specialist; and Certified Scotch Whisky Professional from the Council of Whiskey Masters.