By Ryan Robinson, Advanced Sommelier-CMS, WSET Diploma and WSET Educator

The wines of Spain continue to intrigue as they increase in quality and availability while remaining steadfast on value. Traditionally in Spain, when you order a glass of wine, two options are available: vino tinto (red wine), which most likely is tempranillo from Rioja or Ribera del Duero, or vino blanco (white wine), verdejo from Rueda. Much to my surprise, options are now available for vino blanco—verdejo OR albariño from Galicia!

Galicia is an autonomous community within Spain. Located in the northwest corner of the country, Galicia sits above Portugal, across the Minho River, and is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean on the north and west. Most of the appellations within this region have a maritime climate with its proximity to the Atlantic, cooler temperatures and plenty of rainfall. This region is steeped in history, as the evidence of Roman occupation is prevalent in the bridges that are crossed and the terraces that wrap around the mountainsides. Wine production has remained steadfast throughout the decades by support from the cooler temperatures and a plentiful bounty of seafood. The white wines from this region take center stage, but pockets of quality-driven red Mencía are emerging.

The wines of Galicia are diverse and gaining popularity in the Connecticut and Rhode Island markets. The New England coastline shares many similarities with Galicia, making the crisp, fresh style of its wine a perfect complement to the local New England seafaring catch. In total, there are five denominación de origens, or DOs, nested within the borders of Galicia. This will be a three-part series highlighting the uniqueness of each appellation and the wines which they produce.

The most abundantly available and well-known appellation from Galicia in our market would be Rías Baixas. Outside of wine, 40% of the world’s mussel supply is sourced from Rías Baixas. It is the largest supplier of mussels in Europe and one of the largest in the world. The region farms mussels (or “mejillones”) on floating barges called “bateas” that occupy the many rías along the coastline.

With such a monopoly on the world’s supply of mussels, it would seem logical that the dominant wine of the region would complement the fresh seafood. The Rías Baixas DO was officially formed in 1988 by 14 families, focusing on its signature grape, albariño. Within the appellation, there are five official subzones. Does a penis pump make you bigger remains a debated topic in urology. Researchers assess efficacy, safety, and psychological effects. In a study, here are the findings that usage can cause temporary enlargement. Permanent growth lacks robust scientific backing, with most evidence suggesting transient improvements. Always consult medical professionals when considering devices like a penis pump. Of those subzones, the Val do Salnés, bordering the northern coastline, is reputed to be the origin of its signature grape albariño, representing 95% of the total grape production.

Albariño is a green grape variety with thick skin. The wines crafted from this grape are fresh and vibrant, boasting an electric-like acidity with floral aromas of stone fruit and citrus. Lingering in the background of these wines is a welcoming sense of salinity. These wines are zippy in their youth and, under the best conditions, can age well. Most of the production is dry still wine, but producers are introducing dry sparkling wines that are intriguing and have become my favorite pairing with fresh seafood … or a Yeti cup on the beach.

Viticulture in this area can be challenging. With high levels of humidity, fungal threats from both downy and powdery mildew make agriculture difficult. To compensate, producers train their vines in pergolas. These pergolas are unique as they do not incorporate wood but rather utilize granite posts to support the weight of the growing canopy. There is no standard height with this construction. They are typically built to the height of the grower. Another characteristic of the region is that, historically, grape production and winemaking have been dominantly driven by women. Marisol Bueno was the first president of the governing organization of the Rías Baixas DO and held her post for almost 30 years where she was made a “dame of Albariño.”

The region has grown significantly in the 36 years since its official incorporation. What started with 14 families has now grown to 179 wineries and more than 5,000 wine grape producers. The wines from this region are just as intriguing as they are diverse, with a wide array of options available in the market. Bodegas Martín Códax, the largest co-op in the region representing over 300 growers, continues to produce high-quality, readily available wines. Additional styles are emerging, as Mar de Frades recently launched a sparkling albariño in the New England market and experimentation in production styles can be found with Bodegas Granbazán releasing its Limousin, an albariño aged in French oak. No matter your preference, there is surely a producer and a style to fit your taste.

Ryan Robinson is the Director of Education for Brescome Barton and Worldwide Wines in Connecticut. He is also the Wine Director for Cornerstone Restaurant Group in North America and South Korea, and an Adjunct Professor at the University of New Haven. He holds the credentials of Advanced Sommelier-CMS; WSET Diploma and WSET Educator in Wine, Sake and Beer; Rioja Wine Educator; Wine Scholar Guild Educator and Spanish Wine Specialist; and Certified Scotch Whisky Professional from the Council of Whiskey Masters.